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HUAYNA POTOSI & CHARQUINI, 3 Days
Code: MEHUAYNA

The most popular mountain in Bolivia and probably one of the most visited ones in the world. An excursion to Charquini has been added for acclimatization and practice-day for the main summit.

Dates: Upon request
Price: Upon request (land services only)
Single Room Supplement: N/A
Difficulty: Moderated
Accommodation: 2 nights camping.

HUayna Potosi Mnt. from the top of Charquini (J.Camarlinghi) Huayna Potosí, is Bolivia’s most frequented mountain and probably one of the world’s most visited 6000ers because of its proximity to La Paz, and its moderated "normal" route.

Its true name is Kaka-aka, meaning “The one that aroused from the rocks”. In the Andean underground religion it is a very important”Apu” (mountain god). It is believed that the mountain was first conquered in 1919 by the Germans/Austrians R.Dienst y O.Lohse.

There are several travel guides that describe this climb almost like “a walk in the park” and - unfortunately -, there are lots of travelers who believe it and want to attempt the mountain without a proper acclimatization, in the shortest time as possible (usually 2 days), with the less equipment possible and at the lowest price as possible.

Sadly, there are many cheap travel agencies in Sagarnaga street at La Paz which only care about money and do not hesitate to take complete beginners without training nor acclimatization or proper equipment to climb this mountain which is why we offer Huayna Potosi together with Charquini.

We strongly suggest to be fully acclimatized, ideally to have spent at least 3-4 days at the highlands and have already been higher than 5,500m (18,040ft) before signing for this trip. For more information about this subject, please refer to the page acclimatization at our website. Please consider signing one of the following trip beforehand MECONDOR or MEJKOTA.

Itinerary:

D1. Transp.to Plataforma Zongo. Climb of Charquini. Camp.
D2. Climb to Campo Argentino. Camp
D3. Climb of Huayna Potosi. Trek to base camp. Transp.to La Paz.

Highlights:

Ice climbing and glacier traverse practice and acclimatization day in Charquini 5,392m (17,685ft).
Strategic view point for spendid views of the eastern face of Huayna Potosi and Zongo valley.
Great sightseeing on La Paz city surroundings and Milluni valley on the way in and out.
Spectacular route to Huayna Potosi 6,088m (19,968ft).

Day 1. Transport to Plataforma Zongo. Climb of Charquini. Camp.

Elevations
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Charquini 5,392m (17,685f)
Zongo pass 4,750m (15,580f)
Timing
Driving: 1-2 Hrs
Walking: 7-8 Hrs
Meals
L,D

In a little more than one hour we will drive from La Paz to Plataforma Zongo, a mountain pass between Huayna Potosi and Charquini mountains. Here we will set our campsite for tonight. In order to approach to Charquini glaciers, we have to walk along of an aqueduct that leads to the lower moraines at the base of the mountain, following them we reach the glacier that we will climb towards the col to the north of the summit. From this point there is almost no snow to scramble to the rocky summits so, we could leave our crampons, ice axe and even the rope behind. All the way up to the summit and down to Zongo pass, the guide will be instructing you in basic climbing skills from walking in different type of terrains, rock climbing, snow and ice climbing, glacier travel and basic crevasse rescue techniques.

Day 2. Climb to Campo Argentino. Camp.

Elevations
High camp 5,500m (18,040f)
Timing
Walking: 5-6 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D

After organizing our loads with the high-altitude porters, we will start the ascent following a very marked trail between rocks and moraines on the east face of the mountain. Around noon we will arrive to the edge of the glacier (lower high camp) from where we will rope-up and continue traversing the glacier to “Campo Argentino” (Argentinean camp).

Day 3. Climb of Huayna Potosi. Trek to base camp. Transport to La Paz.

Elevations
Huayna Potosi 6,088m (19,968f)
Zongo pass 4,750m (15,580f)
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Timing
Walking: 8-10 Hrs
Driving 1-2 Hrs
Meals
B,L

Today we will leave campsite around 5:00 a.m. much later than the rest of the climbers. The reason is to avoid the crowds and reduce the danger of climbing with so many inexperienced people and "pseudo-guides" around us. After a light breakfast we will get ready to start our hike traversing glaciers, across crevices and steep, frozen slopes to arrive at the foot of the final pyramid. There we follow either the north crest or the east wall to the summit (GPS’s have given 6,111m). Later we drop down to Zongo pass and return to La Paz.

ALTITUDE CHART

SERVICES

Included

Meals mentioned on the itinerary (three meals per day, snacks and boiled water).
Full land transportation on the trip.
Common camping equipment: 4 season tents (one per each two people), dinning tent, kitchen stuff, and tableware.
Common climbing equipment: ropes, carabiners, slings, snow stakes, ice screws.
Professional bilingual guide(s) during the trip and transfers (on mountaineering trips, we only work with professional UIAGM / IFMGA / IVBV international certified mountain guides).
Luggage transportation with porters and/or animals on trekking & climbing trips (20 kg / 44 lb per person max weight).
Cook(s) when camping.
National Park entrance fees.

Not included

International flight ticket.
Local flight tickets.
International & local airport fees.
Meals & accommodation in la Paz and other main cities.
Personal camping equipment: sleeping bag, foam pad, headlamps, and clothing.
Personal climbing equipment: plastic boots, crampons, harnesses, ice axe.
Insurance of any kind.
Any expense due to a rescue operation (rescuers fee, transportation, or medical cost).

MORE INFORMATION

Please get into our “Resources” page in our website, there you will find plenty of information about pre-departure, National Parks, suggested reading, useful links and much more.

If you would like us to make additional hotel reservations besides the accommodation that is included in your trip, please get into our Reservations page