.jpg) The
massif form by Illampu and Jankouma is not only the largest in Cordillera
Real, but without any doubt one of the most spectacular landscapes of
the Bolivian Andes. According to the Aymara mythology, “Ilapu”
was the god of the thunder and the rain, a powerful god venerated all
around the area.
This is probably the only 6000er in all Bolivia that has no moderated
or normal route. All routes to its summit are difficult, some more than
others, so we have chosen the easiest and more popular route by the north
wall between Illampu and Schultze peak.
Illampu was first climbed in 1928 by: Pfann, Horescowsky, Hortnagel and
Hein brothers. Due to its remoteness and technical difficulties, it is
seldom visited and one finds oneself alone on the mountain.
We strongly suggest to be fully acclimatized, ideally to have spent at
least 3-4 days at the highlands and have already been higher than 5,500m
(18,040ft) before signing for this trip. For more information about this
subject, please refer to the page acclimatization at our website. Please
consider signing one of the following trip beforehand MECONDOR
or MEJKOTA.
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Itinerary:
D1. Transp.to Ancoma. Camp.
D2. Trek to Aguas Calientes. Camp.
D3. Trek to the glacier. Camp.
D4. Climb of Illampu. Camp.
D5. Trek to Ancoma. Camp.
D6. Transp.to La Paz.
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Highlights:
- Great sightseeing
of Sorata valley on the way in and out.
- Spectacular route
to Illampu 6,427m (21,080ft).
- Visit of the last
Keñua tree forest in Cordillera Real
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| Day
1. Transport to Ancoma. Camp. |
Elevations
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Sorata 2678m (8,784f)
Abra Chuchu 4658m (15,278f)
Ancoma 3,877m (12,716f)
Timing
Driving: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
L,D |
Our vehicle takes us
first over the “Altiplano” bordering Lake Titicaca, and then,
through the mountain valleys to reach the village of Sorata set at the foot
of the mythical mountain. After having lunch in a very spectacular view-up
point with great views of Illampu and the microclimatic valleys of Sorata,
we will drive towards “Abra Cuchu” pass from where we will descend
to Ancoma village and set our campsite. We will try to arrive as early as
possible in order to get our porters organized for the days ahead. |
| Day
2. Trek to Aguas Calientes. Camp. |
Elevations
Aguas Calientes 4,600m (15,088f)
Timing
Walking: 4-5 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Today we take it easy,
setting out to walk at midmorning while the mules will take all of our gear
to the next camp called “Aguas Calientes” (normally these cold
waters do not get frozen, and that is the origin of such an ironic name).
On the way we will enjoy wonderful views of the north and east faces of
the north peak of Illampu as we pass through the last Keñua forest
in Cordillera Real.
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| Day
3. Trek to the glacier. Camp. |
Elevations
High camp 5,500m (18,040f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
With the help of the
porters, we will traverse granite slopes washed by ancient glaciers and
loose scree moraines towards our camp located between the rocks and the
glaciers fringe and opposite the majestic west face of Illampu, as high
as we can go with the porters. The rest of the day should be spend marking
the way to the wall through the labyrinth of crevasses and seraks over the
glacier, and – Ideally – to fix a line if the wall.
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| Day
4. Climb of Illampu. Camp. |
Elevations
Illampu 6,427m (21,080f)
High camp 5,500m (18,040f)
Timing
Walking: 10-12 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
After a light breakfast
we will leave campsite and start traversing the glacier towards the bottom
of the 250m (820ft) 50? ice wall. After climbing the wall, we have to still
climb a long ridge leading to the summit. Depending of the season, sometimes
it is impossible to cross a large crevasse that flaks the last meters before
the summit unless climbers do still have the strength to do very technical
climb at high altitude. The reward after a long day will be the views from
the summit; one of the most extraordinary landscapes in the Bolivian Andes.
After a short time at the summit there we will start descending to the high
camp where we will spend a second night.
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| Day
5. Trek to Ancoma. Camp. |
Elevations
Ancoma 3,877m (12,716f)
Timing
Walking: 5-6 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Together with the porters
we will descent all the way to Ancoma village where we will camp for the
night. Although the return to La Paz could be done in one long day, we have
programmed two days for this task in order to have a spare day if needed.
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| Day
6. Transport to La Paz. |
Elevations
Abra Chuchu 4658m (15,278f)
Sorata 2678m (8,784f)
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Timing
Driving: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L |
In the case that we
have not used the spare day in the mountain, we will have a full day to
return to La Paz taking it easy on the way.
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