.jpg) This
is an excellent alternative for those who want to enjoy climbing “small”
peaks of about 5500m (18,040ft) or wants to get acclimatized in a less
crowded area than Condoriri valley.
Although very little
known and seldom visited, Janko Kota valley in Cordillera Real hosts several
peaks at any level of difficulty: from granite spires and long rolling
glaciers to steep snow and ice faces. The base camp is reachable by car
in few hours from La Paz, so it is possible to climb a peak on the same
day of arrival to the valley.
Among the numerous
climbing possibilities in this valley we chose 5 peaks that could be climbed
in a very intensive 5-day trip but this of course is just a rough pan
that can be addapted to the client's endurance and expectations.
We strongly suggest
to be fully acclimatized, ideally to have spent at least 3-4 days at the
highlands and have already been higher than 4500m (14760 ft) before signing
for this trip. For more information about this subject, please refer to
the page acclimatization at our website.
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Itinerary:
D1. Transp.to Janko Kota Valley. Climb of Willa Llojeta. Camp.
D2. Climb of Janko Uyo. Camp.
D3. Climb of Willa Lloje. Camp.
D4. Climb of Culin Tojo. Camp.
D5. Transp.to La Paz
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Highlights:
- Easy ascend to
Willa Llojeta 5244m (17200ft;, moderated climbs to Jankho Uyo 5,512
m (18,079 ft) and Culin Thojo 5,368 m (17,607 ft); technical climbs
of Willa Lloje 5,596m (18,354ft) and Pako Keuta 5,389m (17,675ft).
- Strategic view
points for splendid views of Cordillera Real, the highlands, Lake Titicaca
and the cloud forest.
- Great sightseeing
on the way in and out to Janko Kota.
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| Day
1. Transport to Janko Kota Valley. Climb of Willa Llojeta. Camp. |
Elevations
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Janko Kota 4,800m (15,744f)
Wila Llojeta 5,244m (17,200f)
Timing
Driving: 3-4 Hrs
Walking: 5-6 Hrs
Meals
L,D |
Early in the morning
we leave La Paz heading east in the direction of Lake Titicaca, then at
Peñas rocky range, we take a detour north entering the valleys of
the Janko Kota (White Lake). After setting up camp at the foot of Wila Llojeta,
we will still have time to climb this peak as we revise the mountaineering
techniques on the way. Two road passes flank Willa Llojeta peak, we usually
drive to the Eastern pass and climb the mountain across towards the western
pass. Once at the summit, the views of the surrounding mountains are just
impressive. |
| Day
2. Climb of Janko Uyu. Camp. |
Elevations
Janko Uyu 5,512m (18,079f)
Janko Kota 4,800m (15,744f)
Timing
Walking: 7-8 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Fist we have to ascend
to Mullu pass on the road that heads to Amawaya. From the pass, a long traverse
over granite boulders will lead us to a snowy ridge overlooking to a wide
glacier. The ridge leads directly to the summit, which views open up to
the rest of the Royal Range and the Bolivian Highlands. From this point,
it is possible to view in its entire splendor the mountains in the northern
Cordillera Real: Chachacomani, Charoco, Illampu and Janko Uma. In a clear
day, you can even see Sajama farther to the south.
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| Day
3. Climb of Willa Lloje. Camp. |
Elevations
Willa Lloje 5,596m (18,354f)
Janko Kota 4,800m (15,744f)
Timing
Walking: 9-10 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
After a long approach
through a secondary valley at the western side of Janko Uyo, we will arrive
to an abandon mining campsite and continue between blue-cobalt lagoons,
and through moraines and loose rocks, strait up on a 45° wall leading
to the col. Once at the col the route follows a narrow ridge towards our
summit. This is the highest summit in the area, and the views will certainly
top those we had previous days. There we can decide if returning to the
campsite by the same way, or to take a more direct route down.
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| Day
4. Climb of Culin Tojo. Camp. |
Elevations
Culin Tojo 5,368m (17,607f)
Janko Kota 4,800m (15,744f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Although much smaller
than Janko Uyu and Willa Lloje, the west face to Culin Tojo will certainly
be the most technical climb of the trip. The route starts almost at the
campsite over steep grassy slopes first, through large slabs of granite
smoothed by old glaciers, and over a 45? icy wall. Once at the top, we will
have a great view of the peaks of Condoriri and Janko Kota groups. At the
other side of the mountain, we will also have the chance to watch the miners
who live and work just below the glaciers.
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| Day
5. Transport to La Paz |
Elevations
Pakokeuta 5645m
(18,515f)
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
driving: 3-4 Hrs
Meals
B,L |
Depending of the group
and weather conditions, it may be possible to climb one last peak today,
maybe Pakokeuta on the way back. After that we will return to La Paz.
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