.jpg) It
is said that the Andes is a paradise for climbers looking for peaks of
about 6.000m (20.000ft) and that is certainly true in Bolivia.
Comparing the Andes
with the Alps or the Himalayas we can say that: weather is far more stable
and predictable, approaches - thanks to a large web of mining roads -
are much shorter, the climbing season in much longer (8 to 12 months depending
of the region), and - during the dry season (April to September) - there
is less danger of avalanches. You will have the chance to confirm all
these favorable conditions with our expedition.
The Bolivian Andes
are divided in two main areas: the western volcanic range and the eastern
tectonic mountains gathered in three main mountain ranges: Apolobamba,
Cordillera real and Quimsa Cruz. Cordillera Real - the main mountain range
- contains 6 of the 13 peaks over 6,000m (20.000ft) and hundreds more
over 5,000m (17,000ft) being the most popular destination for climbers
in Bolivia.
NOTE.
The 8 day itinerary does not include an initial acclimatization program.
To find more about it please follow the link to acclimatization
We strongly suggest
you to extent your trip and adding a set date extension to climb Illimani,
6439 m, MEILLIMA or request another "sixthousander"
like Sajama, 6549 m, MESAJAMA or Jankohuma,
6427 m, MEJUMA
|
Itinerary:
D1. Transport to Condoriri. Trek to Chiar Kota. Camp.
D2. Mountaineering techniques Practice. Camp
D3. Climb of Janchallani. Camp
D4. Climb of Pequeño Alpamayo. Camp.
D5. Rest day. Camp.
D6. Trek to Jalancha. Camp.
D7. Trek to the
North Face of Huayna Potosi. Camp.
D8. Climb of Huayna Potosi. Transport to La Paz. End of services.
|
Highlights:
- Ascents to two
of the most popular mountains in Cordillera Real: Pequeño Alpamayo
5,370m (19,613ft) and Huayna Potosi 6,088m (19,968ft).
- Suggested extensions
to Illimani 6,439m (21,125ft) MEILLIMA
or Sajama 6,549m (21,480ft) MESAJAMA.
|
| Day
1. Transport to Condoriri. Trek to Chiar Kota. Camp. |
Elevations
Head trail 4,400m (14,432f)
Chiar Kota 4,650m (15,252f)
Timing
Driving: 1-2 Hrs
Walking: 2-3 Hrs
Meals
L,D |
We will pick you up from
your hotel and drive you over el Alto towards the Andes. After a short car
transfer we will reach the head-trail to Condoriri. There our muleteer will
be waiting with the animals to help us carrying our stuff to the campsite.
It is located at the shores of a lovely lake called “Chiar Kota”
(Dark Lake). While we approach to base camp, we will get surrounded by beautiful
peaks. One of them projects from the rest: Condoriri. It resembles a condor
with its wide-open wings. |
| Day
2. Mountaineering techniques Practice. Camp. |
Elevations
Glacier 4,800m (15,744f)
Chiar Kota 4,650m (15,252f)
Timing
Walking: 3-4 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
In order to start our
acclimatization process and to standardize the climbing techniques to be
used during our expedition, today we will spend part of the day practicing
on the lower slopes of Tarija's glacier. Some subjects to be reviewed are:
rope handle and knots, crampon and ice axe techniques, and – if there
is some time left -, some crevasse rescue techniques. At mid afternoon we
will get back to our camp. |
| Day
3. Climb of Janchallani. Camp |
Elevations
Janchallani 5,396m (17,698f)
Chiar Kota 4,650m (15,252f)
Timing
Walking: 5-6 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Janchallani, also known
as Austria or Cerro Negro, is a easy trekking peak that can be reached via
moraines and rock slopes with no technical difficulty. Sometimes there is
some snow on the slopes and depending on its deep we will probably need
plastic boots and gaiters. Normally, no climbing equipment is required.
It will be a great exercise to complete our acclimatization process and
a unique opportunity to enjoy one of the best views of the Cordillera Real.
|
| Day
4. Climb of Pequeño Alpamayo. Camp. |
Elevations
Tarija Peak 5,290m (17,351f)
Col 5,190m (17,023f)
Pequeño Almapayo 5,370m (19,613f)
Chiar Kota 4,650m (15,252f)
Timing
Walking: 8-10 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Named after Alpamayo
mountain in Peru because its similarity, Pequeño (small) Almapayo
is one of the most aesthetic peaks of the region. Although as high as Janchallani,
this route is much more technical and will represent a fire-test for the
group. After a long and tiring walk to traverse along of the valley through
moraines and loose rocks, we will step-on our crampons and roped-up to traverse
the whole length of a glacier to climb Tarija peak first. From that point,
we will have the best view of the elegant pyramid of Pequeño. The
guide will evaluate the weather and climbers condition before continuing.
The route descends over loose rock to reach the steep ridge leading to the
summit. Although most of the way downhill, the return by no means will be
much easier than the ascent. |
| Day
5. Rest day. Camp. |
Elevations
Chiar Kota 4,650m (15,252f)
Meals
B,L,D |
A well deserved resting
day before our main goal. |
| Day
6. Trek to Jalancha. Camp. |
Elevations
Mtn. Passes 5,000m (16,400f)
Jalancha 4,750m (15,580f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Once we warm up with
the sun and breakfast, we will begin our trek across the two mountain passes
into the northern valley of the majestic Huayna Potosi peak. The trail ascends
quickly across boggy fields and puna grass, typical of the Andean valleys.
Our camp will be set at the foot of steep rocky mountain walls |
| Day
7. Trek to the North Face of Huayna Potosi. Camp. |
Elevations
Camp, 5150 m
Timing
Walking: 5 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
After organizing our
loads with the high-altitude porters, we will start the ascent following
the slopes between rocks and moraines on the north face of the mountain.
Around noon we will arrive to the edge of the glacier (lower high camp)
There we will spend the night. |
| Day
8. Climb of Huayna Potosi. Transport to La Paz. End of services |
Elevations
Huayna Potosi 6,088m (19,968f)
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Timing
Driving: 1-2 Hrs
Walking: 10-12 Hrs
Meals
B,L |
Today we will leave
campsite around 5:00 a.m. and start climbing following a route on the north
side. The reason is to avoid the crowds and reduce the danger of climbing
with so many inexperienced people and "pseudo-guides" around us.
After a light breakfast we will get ready to start our hike traversing glaciers,
crossing crevices and steep frozen slopes to arrive at the foot of the final
pyramid. There we follow either the north crest or the east wall to the
summit. Later we drop down to Zongo pass following the “normal”
route on the southeast side of the mountain. At base camp our vehicle will
be waiting to take us back to La Paz. |
