.jpg) We
have chosen Condoriri - one of the most beautiful mountain valleys in
Cordillera Real - as our school “campus” not only because
of its scenic landscape and its proximity to La Paz, but main of all due
to the existence of hundreds of climbing possibilities.
Starting from the
same base camp at the shores of Chiar Kota lagoon, we will take you for
several days to practice and reinforce technical skills getting ready
for the main objective; that is climbing Pequeño Alpamayo in a
self sufficient expedition organized by the clients (of course closely
supervised by our instructors).
Let us tell you that
our instructors have been trained either by the German Alpine Club (Deutschen
Alpenvereins, DAV) or the Chamonix climbing and ski school (ENSA). As
members of the Bolivian Mountain Guides Association, have got the certification
of the International Mountain Guides Association (IMGA, UIAGM, IVBV).
During this short course, you will learn Internationally approved mountaineering
techniques and – at the same time - visit an exotic destination
and meet an ancient culture. The school "campus" is located
in one of the most beautiful valleys of Cordillera Real.
As part of the instruction you will climb Pequeño Alpamayo and
get the knowledge of the basic mountaineering techniques: from walking
in different type of terrains, rock climbing, snow and ice climbing, glacier
travel and basic crevasse rescue techniques.
The day-by-day itinerary
also includes detailed information about the instruction content, both
theoretical and in the field.
We strongly suggest
to be fully acclimatized, ideally to have spent at least
3-4 days at the highlands and have already been higher than 4500m (14760
ft) before signing for this trip. For more information about this subject,
please refer to the page acclimatization at our website.
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Itinerary:
D1. Transport to La Plaza de Llamas. Trek to Chiar Kota. Camp.
D2. Climb of Janchallani. Camp.
D3. Mountaineering techniques Practice. Camp.
D4. Mountaineering techniques Practice. Camp.
D5. Climb of Pequeño Alpamayo. Camp.
D6. Trek to Plaza de Llamas. Transport to La Paz |
Highlights:
- Easy ascend to
Janchallani 5,396m (17,698ft).
- Ice & rock
climbing instruction.
- Glacier travel
and basic crevasse rescue techniques.
- Splendid views
of Condoriri valley, Huayna Potosi west face and the highlands.
- Great sightseeing
of La Paz surroundings and the highlands on the way in and out to Condoriri.
- Challenging climb
of Pequeño Alpamayo 5,370m (19,613ft).
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| Day
1. Transport to La Plaza de Llamas. Trek to Chiar Kota. Camp. |
Elevations
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Pza.Llamas 4,400m (14,432f)
Chiar Kota 4,650m (15,252f)
Timing
Driving: 2-3 Hrs
Walking: 2-3 Hrs
Meals
L,D |
Early in the morning
we take the high road towards the majestic Andes Mountains that overlook
Lake Titicaca. After a short car transfer we will reach the head-trail near
an Andean meadow called Plaza de Llamas. There, the muleteers and their
animals will be waiting to transport our gear to the campsite located at
the shores of a lovely lake called “Chiar Kota” (dark Lake).
We can help and have a look at them while they prepare the animals and gear
for the trek. Immediately after departure, we will get incredible views
of Mt. Condoriri and Mt. Huayna Potosi. Lunch will be on a spot with magnificent
views over the Condoriri Massif. While we approach we will be all surrounded
by beautiful peaks of all levels of technical difficulty, Condoriri resembling
a condor with its wide-open wings projecting from the rest. For those bursting
with energy it is possible to take a short walk around the area.
Theory
- General briefing
of the course.
- The process of
the acclimatization to the altitude.
- The process of
learning how to climb.
- Basics of the
body metabolism.
Practice
- Beginning of the
acclimatization process.
- Walking over different
types of terrain: soft soil, grass, loose stones, gravel, rock, sand:
- Parallel and
crossed steps.
- Walking aids
(one or two walking sticks).
- Rest-step
technique.
- Oxygen & energy
management (breathing, rhythm, clothing, food).
- Personal equipment
check.
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| Day
2. Climb of Janchallani. Camp. |
Elevations
Janchallani 5,396m (17,698f)
Chiar Kota 4,650m (15,252f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Janchallani (F), also
known as Austria or Cerro Negro, is an easy trekking peak that can be reached
via moraines and rock slopes with no technical difficulty. Sometimes there
is some snow on the slopes and depending on its deep we will probably need
plastic boots and gaiters. Normally, no climbing equipment is required.
Besides practicing, it will be a great exercise to complete our acclimatization
process and a unique opportunity to enjoy one of the best views of the Cordillera
Real.
Theory
- Objective and
subjective dangers in the mountains.
- Camping & climbing
gear (Clothing, Camping equipment, Ice & rock climbing gear).
- Safety and quality
of the equipment (ropes, harnesses, protection, hardware, Karabiners,
etc).
Practice
- Walking on steep
rock using feet and hands.
- Balance of the
body, "three points" technique.
- Feet and hands
position.
- Basic rock climbing,
traversing.
- Basic knots and
rope arts, follow through and on-a-bight if apply:
- Clove Hitch
(Ballestrinque).
- Italian or
Munter Hitch (Medio Ballestrinque).
- Sling knot
(Nudo de cinta).
- Simple, double
& triple Figure 8 knot (Nudo ocho).
- Double &
triple fisherman (Pescador).
- Prusik Hitch.
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| Day
3. Mountaineering techniques Practice. Camp. |
Elevations
Glacier 4,800m (15,744f)
Chiar Kota 4,650m (15,252f)
Timing
Walking: 3-4 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
In order to start the
ice and snow practice, today we will spend part of the day practicing on
a glacier of Tarija peak. At the end of the afternoon we will get back to
our camp.
Theory
- The importance
of Communication (discussion over accidents produced because miss-communication).
- How to plan a
climbing expedition (Goal, Route, Difficulty, Provisions, Equipment,
Personnel, and Transportation).
Practice
without rope
- Walking on ice
with and without crampons, ice axe and walking stake. Practice &
games (duck step, parallel & crossed steps)
- Self arrest (different:
positions, type of terrain, steepness, other complications i.e. back
pack or rope).
- Cutting steps
on ice.
- Cramponing techniques
(French technique / German - front pointing technique)
- Ice axe techniques
(support, Anchor, broom, stairs hand-rail, improvisation with a walking
stick).
Practice with
rope
- Belaying short
difficult passes with the belayer’s body.
- Short rope technique.
- Use of harness
and Tying in (direct & indirect)
- Protection: passive,
active, semi-active (nuts, friends, cams).
- Belaying devices
(ATC, figure 8, Tuber, jaws, Grigri, Carabiner)
- Belay station
built.
- Communication
keywords.
- Simulacrum of
the climbing procedure.
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| Day
4. Mountaineering techniques Practice. Camp. |
Elevations
Glacier 4,800m (15,744f)
Chiar Kota 4,650m (15,252f)
Timing
Walking: 5-6 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Another day on the glacier,
this time practicing more advanced ice and snow techniques. At the end of
the afternoon we will get back to our camp.
Theory
- Geology of the
Andes
- Geography.
- Maps interpretation
(Cartography).
- Roped team work.
- Ice, snow, storms,
climate.
- Glaciers.
Practice
- Plan and log the
route (optimal route, exit route, timing planning, land marks).
- Navigation.
- Use of maps.
- Use of the
compass.
- Use of the
altimeter.
- Use of the
GPS.
- Rope management
- Rock &
ice climbing (one & two ropes)
- Glacier traversing
(optimal distance between climbers)
- Belaying on ice
(top-rope and leading): screws, slings, karabiners, dynamic and static
belays.
- Vertical Ice climbing
practice (top-rope)
- Ice axe traction
technique (1 and 2 tools)
- Belaying on ice:
screws, slings, karabiners, dynamic and static belays.
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| Day
5. Climb of Pequeño Alpamayo. Camp. |
Elevations
Tarija Peak 5,290m (17,351f)
Col 5,190m (17,023f)
Pequeño Almapayo 5,370m (19,613f)
Chiar Kota 4,650m (15,252f)
Timing
Walking: 8-10 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Named after Alpamayo
mountain in Peru because its similarity, Pequeño (small) Almapayo
(AD) is one of the most aesthetic peaks of the region. Although as high
as Janchallani, this route is much more technical and will represent a fire-test
for the group. After a long and tiring walk to traverse along of the valley
through moraines and loose rocks, we will step-on our crampons and roped-up
to traverse the whole length of a glacier to climb Tarija peak first. From
that point, we will have the best view of the elegant pyramid of Pequeño.
The guide will evaluate the weather and climbers condition before continuing.
The route descend over loose rock to reach the steep ridge (up to 50?) leading
to the summit. Although most of the way downhill, the return by no means
will be much easier than the ascent.
Theory
- Mountain sports
training (performance capacity, technical & physical training).
- Physics:
- Climbing gear
(ropes, slings, Caraviners)
- Climbing system
(fall impact, friction)
- Risk and accidents
Practice
- Difficult summit
climb (Practice of learned climbing skills)
- Route planning
- Navigation
and climb (mix route)
- Leading on
Ice.
- Rappel (alone,
with an injured).
- Rope ascent (Prusik
and “Jumaring”).
- Transport
of injured (improvising stretchers).
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| Day
6. Trek to Plaza de Llamas. Transport to La Paz |
Elevations
Pza.Llamas 4,400m (14,432f)
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Timing
Walking: 2-3 Hrs
Driving: 2-3 Hrs
Meals
B,L |
We will retrace our
steps towards Plaza de Llamas where our vehicle will be waiting to take
us back to La Paz.
Theory
- Discussion and
evaluation of the course (critics & self-critics).
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