.jpg) A
great part of our clients who want to climb Huayna Potosi have little
or no technical experience at all, and of course our suggestion is to
take an extra trip to lear and get acclimatized. For the ones who do not
only want to reach the summit of Huayna Potosi but who also want to turn
his/her trip into a learning experience.
The mountains surrounding
Huayna Potosi and the glaciers that flow from its slopes are a great school
“campus”. Starting from the same base camp at the foot of
Huayna Potosi, we will spend the first 4 days learning internationally
approved mountaineering techniques in: walking in different type of terrains,
rock climbing, snow and ice climbing, glacier travel and basic crevasse
rescue techniques.
As the “main
course” we will climb Bolivia’s most frequented mountain and
probably one of the world’s most visited “6000er”.
As the main goal of
the trip clients is the normal route of Huayna Potosi; a moderated peak
that clients must attempt in a self-organized expedition, or course always
with the close supervition of our instructors.
The true name of Huayna
Potosi is Kaka-aka, meaning “The one that aroused from the rocks”.
In the Andean underground religion it is a very important ”Apu”
(mountain god). It is believed that the mountain was first conquered in
1919 by the Germans/Austrians R.Dienst y O.Lohse.
Let us tell you that our instructors have been trained either by the German
Alpine Club (Deutschen Alpenvereins, DAV) or the Chamonix climbing and
ski school (ENSA). As members of the Bolivian Mountain Guides Association,
have got the certification of the International Mountain Guides Association
(IMGA, UIAGM, IVBV).
The day-by-day itinerary
also includes detailed information about the instruction content, both
theoretical and in the field.
We strongly suggest
to be fully acclimatized, ideally to have spent at least
3-4 days at the highlands and have already been higher than 4500m (14760
ft) before signing for this trip. For more information about this subject,
please refer to the page acclimatization at our website.
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Itinerary:
D1. Transp.to Plataforma Zongo. Mountaineering techniques Practice.
Camp.
D2. Climb of Khala Cruz. Camp.
D3. Climb of Charquini. Camp.
D4. Mountaineering techniques Practice. Camp.
D5. Climb to Campo Argentino. Camp.
D6. Climb of Huayna Potosi. Trek to base camp. Transport to La Paz.
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Highlights:
- Easy ascend to
Charquini 5,392m (17,685ft).
- Ice & rock
climbing instruction.
- Glacier travel
and basic crevasse rescue techniques.
- Splendid views
of Zongo valley, Huayna Potosi ears face and the cloud forest.
- Great sightseeing
of La Paz surroundings on the way in and out to Huayna Potosi.
- Two day classic
ascend of Huayna Potosi 6,088m (19,968ft).
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| Day
1. Transport to Plataforma Zongo. Mountaineering techniques Practice. Camp. |
Elevations
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Mina Milluni 4,600m (15,088f)
Zongo pass 4,750m (15,580f)
Timing
Driving: 1-2 Hrs
Walking: 2-3 Hrs
Meals
L,D |
In a little more than
one hour we will drive from La Paz to Milluni mine from where we will walk
towards Plataforma Zongo; our base camp. Actually we could drive all the
way to our campsite, but we have planned this short hike to not only get
better acclimatized but to have the chance to practice in the hills and
cliffs that surround this scenic landscape.
Theory
- General briefing
of the course.
- The process of
the acclimatization to the altitude.
- The process of
learning how to climb.
- Basics of the
body metabolism.
Practice
- Beginning of the
acclimatization process.
- Walking over different
types of terrain: soft soil, grass, loose stones, gravel, rock, sand:
- Parallel and
crossed steps.
- Walking aids
(one or two walking sticks).
- Rest-step
technique.
- Oxygen & energy
management (breathing, rhythm, clothing, food).
- Personal equipment
check.
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| Day
2. Climb of Khala Cruz. Camp. |
Elevations
Khala Cruz 5,220m (17,122f)
Zongo pass 4,750m (15,580f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Khala Cruz (Stone crux)
is an easy trekking satellite peak of Charquini; a magnificent view point
to admire Huayna Potosi in its entire splendor. We reach this peak via moraines
and washed rock slabs climbing strait up from base camp and passing. This
is not a technical route but we will take some climbing equipment just to
practice. It will be a great exercise to complete our acclimatization process.
Theory
- Objective and
subjective dangers in the mountains.
- Camping & climbing
gear (Clothing, Camping equipment, Ice & rock climbing gear).
- Safety and quality
of the equipment (ropes, harnesses, protection, hardware, Karabiners,
etc).
Practice
- Walking on steep
rock using feet and hands.
- Balance of the
body, "three points" technique.
- Feet and hands
position.
- Basic rock climbing,
traversing.
- Basic knots and
rope arts, follow through and on-a-bight if apply:
- Clove Hitch
(Ballestrinque).
- Italian or
Munter Hitch (Medio Ballestrinque).
- Sling knot
(Nudo de cinta).
- Simple, double
& triple Figure 8 knot (Nudo ocho).
- Double &
triple fisherman (Pescador).
- Prusik Hitch.
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| Day
3. Climb of Charquini. Camp. |
Elevations
Charquini 5,392m (17,685f)
Zongo pass 4,750m (15,580f)
Timing
Walking: 7-8 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
In order to start the
ice and snow practice, today we will spend the day in Charquini peak. At
the end of the afternoon we will get back to our camp. The approach to the
glaciers, we have to walk along of an aqueduct that leads to the lower moraines
at the base of the mountain, following them we reach the glacier that we
will climb towards the col to the north of the summit. From this point there
is almost no snow to scramble to the rocky summits so, we can leave our
crampons, ice axe and even the rope behind.
Theory
- The importance
of Communication (discussion over accidents produced because miss-communication).
- How to plan a
climbing expedition (Goal, Route, Difficulty, Provisions, Equipment,
Personnel, and Transportation).
Practice without
rope
- Walking on ice
with and without crampons, ice axe and walking stake. Practice &
games (duck step, parallel & crossed steps)
- Self arrest (different:
positions, type of terrain, steepness, other complications i.e. back
pack or rope).
- Cutting steps
on ice.
- Cramponing techniques
(French technique / German - front pointing technique)
- Ice axe techniques
(support, Anchor, broom, stairs hand-rail, improvisation with a walking
stick).
Practice with
rope
- Belaying short
difficult passes with the belayer’s body.
- Short rope technique.
- Use of harness
and Tying in (direct & indirect)
- Protection: passive,
active, semi-active (nuts, friends, cams).
- Belaying devices
(ATC, figure 8, Tuber, jaws, Grigri, Carabiner)
- Belay station
built.
- Communication
keywords.
- Simulacrum of
the climbing procedure.
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| Day
4. Mountaineering techniques Practice. Camp. |
Elevations
Glacier 4,900m (16,072f)
Zongo pass 4,750m (15,580f)
Timing
Walking: 3-4 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Another day on the glacier,
this time we will head to the lower glacier of Huayna Potosi to practice
more advanced ice and snow techniques. At the end of the afternoon we will
get back to our camp.
Theory
- Geology of the
Andes
- Geography.
- Maps interpretation
(Cartography).
- Roped team work.
- Ice, snow, storms,
climate.
- Glaciers.
Practice
- Plan and log the
route (optimal route, exit route, timing planning, land marks).
- Navigation.
- Use of maps.
- Use of the
compass.
- Use of the
altimeter.
- Use of the
GPS.
- Rope management
- Rock &
ice climbing (one & two ropes)
- Glacier traversing
(optimal distance between climbers)
- Belaying on ice
(top-rope and leading): screws, slings, karabiners, dynamic and static
belays.
- Vertical Ice climbing
practice (top-rope)
- Ice axe traction
technique (1 and 2 tools)
- Belaying on ice:
screws, slings, karabiners, dynamic and static belays.
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| Day
5. Climb to Campo Argentino. Camp. |
Elevations
High camp 5,500m (18,040f)
Timing
Walking: 5-6 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
After organizing our
loads with the high-altitude porters, we will start the ascent following
a very marked trail between rocks and moraines on the east face of the mountain.
Around noon we will arrive to the edge of the glacier (lower high camp)
from where we will rope-up and continue traversing the glacier to “Campo
Argentino” (Argentinean camp).
Theory
- Mountain sports
training (performance capacity, technical & physical training).
- Physics:
- Climbing gear
(ropes, slings, Caraviners)
- Climbing system
(fall impact, friction)
- Risk and accidents
Practice
- Difficult summit
climb (Practice of learned climbing skills)
- Route planning
- Navigation
and climb (mix route)
- Leading on
Ice.
- Rappel (alone,
with an injured).
- Rope ascent (Prusik
and “Jumaring”).
- Transport
of injured (improvising stretchers).
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| Day
6. Climb of Huayna Potosi. Trek to base camp. Transport to La Paz. |
Elevations
Huayna Potosi 6,088m (19,968f)
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Timing
Walking: 8-10 Hrs
Driving: 1-2 Hrs
Meals
B,L |
Today we will leave
campsite around 5:00 a.m. much later than the rest of the climbers. The
reason is to avoid the crowds and reduce the danger of climbing with so
many inexperienced people and "pseudo-guides" around us. After
a light breakfast we will get ready to start our hike traversing glaciers,
across crevices and steep, frozen slopes to arrive at the foot of the final
pyramid. There we follow either the north crest or the east wall to the
summit (GPS’s have given 6,111m). Later we drop down to Zongo pass
and return to La Paz.
Theory
- Discussion and
evaluation of the course (critics & self-critics).
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