| Day
1. Arrival in La Paz. Transfer to Hotel. |
Elevations
El Alto: 4,100m (13,450f)
La Paz: 3,650m (11,972ft)
Timing
Driving: 30 min
Meals
None |
Arriving in La Paz, what
impresses the most is the crisp clear sky of the highlands. In a normal
winter day it is possible to see over a distance of 200Km (120mi). The cold
and dry air feels good after so many hours of treated pressurized cabin
air.
The airport is located
in the city of “El Alto” the highest international airport
in the world from here you will be transferred to your hotel descending
approximately 30 Min. into La Paz city canyon. Do not stress much about
the altitude; our program has been designed to get you gradually acclimatized.
At the beginning we strongly suggest you to take it very easy, drink plenty
of water and eat lightly (get into out Acclimatization page for more information).
You will have the
rest of the day free. At early evening we will have a briefing meeting.
|
| Day
2. Visit of Tiwanaco. Transport to Patapatani. Camp. |
Elevations
El Alto 4,100m (13,450f)
Lake Titicaca 3,810m (12,497f)
Timing
Driving: 4-5 Hrs
Walking: 1-2 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Traveling through this
land you will understand how important the shores of Lake Titicaca have
been in the origin of the Andean cultures. Surrounded by desert like hills
and snow caped mountains, lake Titicaca offered, and still offers, rich
lands and a mild climate. Tiwanaco used to be a port, an important ceremonial
center and a huge urban establishment. After an illustrative tour through
the ruins and museums, we will drive back to La Paz (El Alto) and from there
to the southern shores of the lake. On the way to our campsite, we will
be culturally transferred to the past as we go by Aymara villages where
Indians have been keeping their lifestyle for centuries. Our campsite will
be located on a beautiful beach on the shores of Patapatani peninsula, with
a great view of the peaks of “Cordillera Real”. |
| Day
3. Trek to Kala-Uta ruins. Motor boat to Pariti & Intja Island. Camp |
Elevations
Lake Titicaca 3,810m (12,497f)
Timing
Walking: 1-2 Hrs
Motor boat: 1-2 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Today we will start
trekking in the Bolivian Highlands. We will visit the archeological sites
of Khala Uta (house of stones). Later we will take a motor boat to navigate
through a natural labyrinth of reeds that host many Andean bird species
towards the island of Pariti. There we will visit its extraordinary museum.
After lunch we will head to Intja Island where we will set up camp and enjoy
the sunset overlooking the Cordillera Real massif. |
| Day
4. Motor boat to Suriqui island & Puerto Pérez. Hotel |
Elevations
Lake Titicaca 3,810m (12,497f)
Timing
Walking: 2-3 Hrs
Motor boat: 1-2 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
In the morning we will
navigate towards Suriqui Island whose inhabitants are the famous reed boat
makers of Lake Titicaca. Some of them have helped adventurers like Thor
Hyerdahl, Kintín Muñoz and others to build the ships they
used to attempt Trans oceanic expeditions. Later afternoon we will navigate
offshore towards Puerto Perez located at the southeastern shores of the
lake. The mountains will “grow” in front of us dominating the
landscape and the glaciers will get “tanned” by the late afternoon
light as we approach to our hotel. |
| Day
5. Transport to Pelechuco. Basic hostel. |
Elevations
Pelechuco pass 4,860m (15,946f)
Pelechuco 3,600m (11,800f)
Timing
Driving: 8-10 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
We normally think that
driving almost all day long can be really boring, but driving to Pelechuco
does not feel that long. The road follows the eastern shores of Lake Titicaca
and afterwards gets into the rolling hills of Muñecas mountain range.
As the rocks change colors and the lakes shown their colored waters, the
car runs into the Ulla Ulla plateau, the largest Vicuña reserve in
Bolivia. Thousands of wild animals run in front of glaciated peaks and colorful
lakes. Finally the road passes in between the glaciated mountains and descends
to Pelechuco town. This settlement experienced an economic boom in the time
of the Spanish occupation, and its streets and houses remind us of the old
castle hamlets in Spain. These days no Spanish remain, only an indigenous
population, which has adopted Spanish names. As we drive by the main street,
we feel time transported into the middle ages. The hotel has nothing to
do with last night’s four-star but is as charming as the town. |
| Day
6. Trek to Pusu Punku (Gate to the swamp). Camp. |
Elevations
Pelechuco River 3,000m (9,840f)
Pusu Punku 4,200m m(13,776f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
The ancient trail, probably
thousand years old, will lead us inside the cloud forest. As we hike lower,
the exuberant vegetation covers every single spot; no matter if it is soil,
rock or a human made thing. This trail used to be the main way into the
Amazon basin, but now the jungle has "claimed" it back. The construction
of new roads several years ago has taken the commerce somewhere else. After
descending about 3 hours from Pelechuco towards the lush green vegetation,
we will leave the main trail and start a very steep climbing on a very seldom-used
path that follows the Piukala River. Machetes may be needed to open our
way towards the hut that was used by the National Geographic scientists
to study the Andean Bear. We will camp high above the timber line in a aerial
spot called "Pusu Punku" (the gate to the swamp) and wait for
luck to spot a bear. The line between the forest and the grass lands is
so well marked that only a few steps are needed to be on either of them. |
| Day
7. Trek to Siete Lagunas (Seven lakes). Camp. |
Elevations
1st Mnt Pass 4,560m (14,960f)
Valley 3,900m (12,792f)
2nd Mnt Pass 4,200m (13,780f)
Siete Lagunas 4,150m (13,616f)
Timing
Walking:7-8 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Today, while our mules
take the main path near the bottom of the valley towards the mountain pass,
we will take a longer way ascending first to the top of the ridge and –
hopefully – enjoy the great views of the Apolobamba Mountains. The
good thing is that we are already acclimatized and the altitude does not
feel like it did a week ago. The landscape changes dramatically as we get
higher in condor’s land. After descending to the valley and crossing
the first mountain pass, we will descend to a steep valley, ascend again
to the second pass of the day, and finally descend to the campsite called
“Canchis Kocha” (seven lagoons in Quechua language) located
in a wide valley where there are several, actually more than seven lakes
surrounded by rolling hills and steep rocky spires. |
| Day
8. Trek to Impillani. Camp. |
Elevations
1st Mnt Pass 4,390m (14,400f)
Valley 3,950m (12,956f)
2nd Mnt Pass 4,200m (13,780f)
Impillani 4,105m (13,469f)
Timing
Walking: 4-5 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Towards our daily mountain
pass we will meet another ancient trail. Because its size, it seems to be
a more important one. There is a common confusion and everyone – even
locals -, call these roads “Inca Trails” but the truth is that
they are much older and here in Bolivian territory, they were probably built
by the Tiwanaco civilization. Now we are very deep inside the wild Andes
Mountains. After crossing two mountain passes and having traversed a couple
of Andean valleys we will descend into Impillani valley where we will camp
just after the last mountain pass. It is recommendable to look at the mountain
sides with binoculars, who knows you may spot a fox, a coyote, an Andean
deer, or – if you are really lucky – a bear or a puma. |
| Day
9. Trek to Queara valley. Camp. |
Elevations
Queara river 3,000m (9,840f)
Queara 3,190m (10,466f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Looking at those valleys
and mountains, one realizes that people did not invent “Feng Shui”;
its concepts lie in nature. The creeks, the ravines, the meadows, the forest
patches in between rocky peaks and the lakes transmit us such a calm feeling
of peace that we do not want to leave. The trail will descend into a deep
microclimatic valley called Queara. The campsite could not be more paradisiacal.
A flat grassy field called “Muya” with a clear water stream
where trout jump from time to time. |
| Day
10. Trek to Llamaca. Camp. |
Elevations
Llamaca 4,650m (15,257f)
Timing
Walking: 7-8 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Prepare yourself for
a long climb. The trail has been magnificently designed. It switches back
and forward on steep rocky faces and will get us back to the altitude lands.
For the first time since Pelechuco we will meet a local community: Queara
village located at the tree line. The shy but friendly people are the Mollo
Indians. Later at the evening, we will camp in a grassy flat near the mountains. |
| Day
11. Trek to Llajta Cuchu.Camp. |
Elevations
Sanches Pass 4,750m (15,585f)
Valley 4,550m (14,924f)
Llajta Cuchu 4,650m (15,257f)
Timing
Walking: 5-6 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
An early wakeup will
worth the astonishing sunrise we will enjoy. Towards Sanches mountain pass,
we will have great views of both perpetual extremes of the Andes: the mountains
and the Amazon basin usually covered by a sea of clouds. We are getting
into the very high lands of the Apolobamba. After descending to Macara valley,
we will follow it to its head where glaciers and the peaks will seem so
close that one thinks about touching them. Do not be fooled, the air is
so clean and thin that everything looks closer than it is. Tonight will
be chilly since the glaciers around the campsite cool the air. Our campsite
will be located near a place that locals call “Gringo Machai”
(the cave of the “gringos”). |
| Day
12. Trek to Suches (Itiña de Justuluchu). Camp |
Elevations
English Pass 5,250m (17,225f)
Lake Suches 4,700m (15,421f)
Timing
Walking: 7-8 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Today will be our “Test
of fire” since; we have to cross the highest mountain pass of the
trek. First we will ascend over old moraines and through rocky galleys to
the Chucuyo pass (English pass as is written in Yossi Brian’s travel
guide). We have to cross a glacier that miners of “Flor de Nevada”
gold mine traverse regularly using sandals!. Unfortunately, and due to the
severe glacier receding that is happening in the whole Andes, this not an
“easy” walk anymore. Although there is not technical climb involved,
the glacier itself – especially the edges – are very icy and
we will take the precaution of using crampons, harnesses and ropes. Once
on the other side will hike, following a secondary road, to our campsite
located much lower into the valley of Lake Suches. NOTA.-
Depending on weather conditions or clients’ experience,
the guide may take the decision to not attempt crossing this mountain
pass. In this case, the group should descend to Pelechuco and spend the
rest of the day there. Day 13 be transferred to Quta Pekeña and
continue with the rest of the program as planned onwards.
|
| Day
13. Trek to Quta Pekeña. Camp. |
Elevations
1st Mnt Pass 5,100m (16,733f)
Quta Pekeña 4,600m (15,088f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
The main characteristic
of the western side of the range is that there is less vegetation; we will
see more lakes and snow on the western slopes of the mountains since we
will be hiking much higher and much closer to the glaciers. Since we will
be hiking close to the mountains that face the Ulla Ulla plains, the trails
are not as big and well designed than those on the eastern side but the
high mountain landscape is enough reward. Today, we will start our trek
through the Bolivia’s biggest Vicuña reserve. After crossing
a mountain pass, we will descent to the main road that leads us to Pelechuco
several days ago. Our campsite will be located near the village of Quta
Pekeña |
| Day
14. Rest Day. Camp. |
Elevations
Quta Pekeña 4,600m (15,088f)
Timing
None
Meals
B,L,D |
Activities for today
can be hiking the campsite surroundings, accompany locals to fish at the
lake (not always possible), play cards, or just relax and read.
The main economic activity in the area is Alpaca farming, animal that benefit
local communities with the meat (delicious, low in fat and with high content
of protein), leather and mainly wool.
Certainly – while resting at the campsite - we will receive the visit
of artisans who knit and weave alpaca garments.
|
| Day
15. Trek to Nube Cuchu. Camp. |
Elevations
1st Mnt Pass 5,210m (17,094f)
Nube Cuchu 4,650m (15,257f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Starting from the day
we crossed the mountain pass over the glacier until almost the end of the
trek, we will enjoy the best mountain landscapes ever in the Andes. Every
valley we traverse has its own group of peaks; competing each other in wilderness
and beauty. Today is not an exception, after getting deep into a beautiful
valley we will climb to a mountain pass and descend to the valley of the
lakes: Nube. We always camp close to a lake or a water stream; this time,
we will camp near Nube lagoon. In fact the main sound on the trek will be
water based. |
| Day
16. Trek to Puyu Puyu. Camp. |
Elevations
1st Mnt Pass 4,900m (16,072f)
Puyu Puyu 4,750m (15,585f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Another day between
the mountains and the highlands, this time hiking in the valleys of Nube
and Kellu which host an amazing number of colorful lakes that certainly
will became the main attraction for the first part of the day. After contouring
a ridge, we will cross to the other side of a valley and start climbing
towards our daily mountain pass. The bottom of the valleys – as usual
– will be all dotted with hundreds of llamas, alpacas and Vicuñas
herding on the river banks while rock and ice are the main elements when
we look up to the mountains. We will camp in a flat grassy field for tonight. |
| Day
17. Trek to Cañuma Cuchu. Camp. |
Elevations
1st Mnt Pass 4,800m (15,749f)
Climbing Peak 5,050m (16,564f)
Chojña Kota 4,660m (15,289f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
We have two options:
an “easy” and a not so easy one. The first option implies a
long hike through rolling hills and deep into a valley that leads to the
mountain pass. The second option goes to the same mountain pass, but, climbing
a small peak on the way. The reward is the best
360 degree view of the trek including: the whole Apolobamba mountain range,
the Ulla Ulla plains, Lake Titicaca on the horizon, the deep valleys of
Muñecas mountain range, and – to the south – the Illampu-Janko
Uma massif of Cordillera Real. After enjoying the astonishing landscape,
we have to descend over loose terrain to the other side into Cañuma
(Dirty Water) valley. There we will camp close to the shores of Chojña
Kota lagoon.
|
| Day
18. Trek to Curva. Basic hostel. |
Elevations
Ul.la Kaya pass 4,910m (16,110f)
Caballuni river 4,100m (13,448f)
Canisaya pass 4,400m (14,436f)
Curva 3,600m (11,812f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Driving: 1 Hr
Meals
B,L,D |
Today is quite a long
journey since we do not only have to cross two mountain passes, but also
cover a long distance to arrive to Curva town. Both mountain passes are
not as high as the last’s days. We will keep walking along the lower
slopes of Akamani, the sacred mountain of the Callawayas. After the second
pass, we will descend to Canisaya valley; the head valley of Curva town;
land of the Callawaya Indians. They are famous in the whole Andes Range
because they are healers and Witch doctors. Their knowledge has been transmitted
from father to son for centuries. It is said that they were the official
doctors of the Inca Aristocracy. Our route will gradually leave the highlands
to get us in their land and meet people living the same way as five hundred
years ago. Depending of he distance we can make, we will either hike all
the way to Curva or be picked-up by our car on Canisaya village. |
| Day
19. Transport to La Paz. Hotel. |
Elevations
Road Paz 4,800m (15,744f)
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Timing
Driving: 8-9 Hrs
Meals
B,L |
We will take the same
road back to La Paz. On the way back we will make a short visit to the Callawaya
capital: Charazani. Then the road will lead us to the Altiplano and Lake
Titicaca towards La Paz city. |
| Day
20. Free day. Hotel. |
Elevations
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Timing
None
Meals
B,D |
Free day in La Paz to
rest or enjoy shopping in La Paz markets. At early evening we will have
a farewell dinner and celebrate all together. |
| Day
21. Departure. Transfer to Airport. |
Elevations
El Alto 4,100m (13,450f)
Timing
Driving: 30 min
Meals
B |
Transfer to airport. |
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When
we were looking for a new trekking destination in Bolivia, we didn’t
realize that we were probably found the best mountain trek in South America.