.jpg) The
Apus are the mountain gods in the Indian religion. The word Apolobamba
means the flat land (bamba or pampa) of the mountain gods. “Apulubamba”
is probably the ancient name of the actual Ulla Ulla plains, where nowadays
consist the Ulla Ulla National Park and Vicuña reserve. And indeed,
the mountain peaks dominate the flat highlands of Ulla Ulla.
Those lands have hosted
several cultures through the centuries. Some still survive in the lower
mountain valleys. The Kallawayas, the itinerant healers, are the most
known. To trek into the Apolobamba range is to travel to another time...
almost to another dimension where time and space are measured in a different
way.
Our route will follow
the classic route along the eastern side of Apolobamba mountain range,
starting in the charming village of Pelechuco and ending in Curva; the
capital of the Kallawayas. Several high mountain passes have to be crossed
along the route, each one with a deep valley behind, this route and the
location of the campsites have been planned to complete the route in the
less time possible.
Unfortunately gold
miners are putting a lot of pressure to build roads, of course, following
almost the same route as the ancient trails. That is why nowadays this
trekking route is almost 60% over secondary dusty roads. By the end of
2008 the price of minerals are going down again and - fortunately - this
road-building fever has diminished, but the damage is already done. That
is why we strongly suggest you to consider TTMADIDI
or TTPELQUE trips in instead of this, but if
you still want to make this route, gladly we will help you organize your
trip.
|
Itinerary:
D1. Transport to Pelechuco. Basic hostel.
D2. Trek to Hilo Hilo river. Camp.
D3. Trek to Sunchulli pass. Camp.
D4. Trek to Incacancha. Camp.
D5. Trek to Curva. Basic hostel.
D6. Transport to La Paz. Hotel. |
Highlights:
- Extraordinary sightseeing
of the highlands, the Ulla Ulla plains and northern Lake Titicaca shores
on the way in to Pelechuco and out from Curva.
- Trekking through
the land of the Kallawayas famous Andean witch doctors following an
ancient pre-Hispanic trail.
- Extraordinary views
of the mountains and valleys of the southern Apolobamba.
- Sightseeing Curva
and Charazani towns, capital of the Kallawaya culture.
|
| Day
1. Transport to Pelechuco. Basic hostel. |
Elevations
Pelechuco pass 4,860m (15,946f)
Pelechuco 3,600m (11,800f)
Timing
Driving: 8-10 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
We normally think that
driving almost all day long can be really boring, but driving to Pelechuco
does not feel that long. The road follows the eastern shores of Lake Titicaca
and afterwards gets into the rolling hills of Muñecas mountain range.
As the rocks change colors and the lakes shown their colored waters, the
car runs into the Ulla Ulla plateau, the largest Vicuña reserve in
Bolivia. Thousands of wild animals run in front of glaciated peaks and colorful
lakes. Finally the road passes in between the glaciated mountains and descends
to Pelechuco town. This settlement experienced an economic boom in the time
of the Spanish occupation, and its streets and houses remind us of the old
castle hamlets in Spain. These days no Spanish remain, only an indigenous
population, which has adopted Spanish names. As we drive by the main street,
we feel time transported into the middle ages. The hotel has nothing to
do with last night’s four-star but is as charming as the town. |
| Day
2. Trek to Hilo Hilo river. Camp. |
Elevations
Keasani pass 4,900m (16,072f)
Hilo Hilo river 4,320m (14,169f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
While our muleteers
load up the horses and mules, we start the ascent towards Keasani pass following
a on and off a trail built by pre-Inca cultures several hundreds of years
ago (unfortunately miners have start building a new road over the ancient
trail). After exiting the town through narrow passages connecting local’s
backyards, our route climbs slowly along a mountain valley. Very soon the
mountains that surround Pelechuco will be below us and we will have our
first views to the sea of clouds in the bottom of the valleys heading to
the Amazon. Close to the mountain pass, we will have lunch near a small
lagoon. The last ascend to the pass will be breathtaking since it will be
the first time you will be at this altitude, fat consolation, next one will
fell less tough!. There is always a cairn called “Apacheta”;
ceremonial offerings to the mountain gods; the “Achachilas”.
The tradition says that as bigger the stone you carry from the bottom of
the valley to put on top of the pile, as larger the favor you can ask to
the gods. Our knees will feel the short but steep descent to the bottom
of a very narrow valley surrounded by steep slopes and with a crystal clear
stream. There we will set our first campsite at the bottom of the valley
near the village of Palca. There are many “Palcas” in Bolivia,
the word, in Aymara language means “Y” shape (the confluence
of two rivers or valleys). |
| Day
3. Trek to Sunchulli pass. Camp. |
Elevations
Puyu River 3,750m (12,300f)
Campsite 4,900m (15,729f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
After breaking campsite
we will traverse a mountain slope with great views of rural landscapes towards
the mining town of Hilo Hilo, then descend to Puyu river and start the way
uphill to “Piedra Grande” (big stone) village; an agricultural
settlement with its potato crops all over the valley and mountain slopes.
After lunch we will continue ascending, first zigzagging at the side of
a beautiful waterfall and then traversing a beautiful mountain valley. Our
campsite will be located just at the foot of the northwest slopes of Cuchillo
mountain, where surrounded by soaring mountains, pastures for llamas and
alpacas we will enjoy our “tea time”. |
| Day
4. Trek to Incacancha. Camp. |
Elevations
Sunchulli pass 5,100m (16,728f)
Inca cancha 4,100m (13,448f)
Timing
Climb: 7-8 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Today we have a very
long and extended trekking day. First we have to cross the Sunchulli pass
(the highest of the trip), down to the next valley and cross swampy plains
with lots of Llamas and Alpacas grassing. There we will spot the gold mine
of Sunchulli in operation since ancient times. A legend tells that when
the Spanish arrived and took over the mines, the Incas to cursed them. Year
later and earthquake loosened masses of ice of the surrounding glaciers
and the ensuing avalanche of ice, mud and rocks completely destroyed the
Spanish settlement. Today small mining cooperatives still work in the same
mines in the search of the entrance to the famous Inca mine. At the end
of the day, and after crossing two more mountain passes, we will abruptly
descend through a narrow steep gorge to the bottom of the valley. There
we will camp in a place called Inca Cancha. |
| Day
5. Trek to Curva. Basic hostel. |
Elevations
Akamani pass 4,700m (15,416f)
Curva 3,600m (11,808f)
Timing
Driving: 8-10 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
We have a long day to
trek to Akamani high camp. First thing in the morning we have to climb the
other side of the valley towards a mountain pass; it will be the last pass
of the trek if that helps you as a consolation. After a long climb to the
pass we will descend some distance to a second sort of pass from where we
will spot for the first time our destination in the valley of Curva. Early
in the afternoon we will arrive to Lagunillas where – if we are lucky
to find the key keeper -, will stay in a hut, otherwise we will camp near
a nice lagoon. A short hike to Curva to explore the town and meet its people
is a must |
| Day
6. Transport to La Paz. |
Elevations
Road Paz 4,800m (15,744f)
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Timing
Driving: 8-9 Hrs
Meals
B,L |
No more walking, our
vehicle will take us back to La Paz. On the way back we will make a short
visit to Charazani; the Callawaya’s capital. The road will lead us
to the Altiplano and Lake Titicaca shores on the way towards La Paz city. |
