.jpg) In
the past years, Apolobamba National Park, Ulla Ulla Vicuña Reserve
and Madidi National Park have been engulfed into one huge protected area
which covers all of the ecological steps in the Andes and the Amazon:
from the high glaciated mountains down into the deep Amazon rain forest.
As the area is slightly
populated, the nature is at its most pristine form. Therefore, chances
of spotting wild animals are far more realistic than anywhere else in
the Andes: Condors, dozens of bird species, lots of Vizcachas (Andean
Marmot), and – with some luck - an spectacled bear, coyotes, deer,
foxes or occasionally pumas.
Our circuit starts
and ends in the town of Pelechuco including the most remote and isolated
mountains to the north of Pelechuco. The route descends below the timber
line of the upper Madidi National Park, and climbs up again to the mountains
to the north of Pelechuco, to finally return to the town.
The journey will give
you a very deep insight of Bolivia’s culture while you trek in the
remote magnificence of the biggest protected area in Bolivia and one of
the largest in South America. Along the way, besides visiting several
ancient pre Hispanic ruins, we will meet some of the original ethnic groups,
who have been keeping their lifestyle for centuries, away from western
civilization: the Aymaras around Titicaca lake, the Quechuas on the northern
Apolobamba range and the Callawayas on its southern end.
This itinerary has
been designed for those who only want to trek in Apolobamba north. Please
note that to take this trip alone, you must already be acclimatized to
the highlands. This means that you must have spent at least 3-5 days at
the highlands doing light physical activity. For more information about
this subject, please refer to the page acclimatization at our website.
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Itinerary:
D1. Transp.to Pelechuco.
Basic hostel.
D2. Trek to Pusu Punku (Gate to the swamp). Camp.
D3. Trek to Siete Lagunas (Seven lakes). Camp.
D4. Trek to Impillani. Camp.
D5. Trek to Queara valley. Camp.
D6. Trek to Llamaca. Camp.
D7. Trek to Pelechuco.Basic hostel.
D8. Transp.to La Paz. |
Highlights:
- Extraordinary sightseeing
of the highlands, the Ulla Ulla plains and northern Lake Titicaca shores
on the way in and out to Pelechuco.
- Breathtaking views
along of the trek in the northern Apolobamba.
- Demanding 6-day
trek following some of the most ancient pre-Hispanic trails in the land
source of the Inca gold.
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| Day
1. Transport to Pelechuco. Basic hostel. |
Elevations
Pelechuco pass 4,860m (15,946f)
Pelechuco 3,600m (11,800f)
Timing
Driving: 8-10 Hrs
Meals
L,D |
We normally think that
driving almost all day long can be really boring, but driving to Pelechuco
does not feel that long. The road follows the eastern shores of Lake Titicaca
and afterwards gets into the rolling hills of Muñecas mountain range.
As the rocks change colors and the lakes shown their colored waters, the
car runs into the Ulla Ulla plateau, the largest Vicuña reserve in
Bolivia. Thousands of wild animals run in front of glaciated peaks and colorful
lakes. Finally the road passes in between the glaciated mountains and descends
to Pelechuco town. This settlement experienced an economic boom in the time
of the Spanish occupation, and its streets and houses remind us of the old
castle hamlets in Spain. These days no Spanish remain, only an indigenous
population, which has adopted Spanish names. As we drive by the main street,
we feel time transported into the middle ages. The hotel has nothing to
do with last night’s four-star but is as charming as the town. |
| Day
2. Trek to Pusu Punku (Gate to the swamp). Camp. |
Elevations
Pelechuco River 3,000m (9,840f)
Pusu Punku 4,200m (13,776f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
The ancient trail, probably
thousand years old, will lead us inside the cloud forest. As we hike lower,
the exuberant vegetation covers every single spot; no matter if it is soil,
rock or a human made thing. This trail used to be the main way into the
Amazon basin, but now the jungle has "claimed" it back. The construction
of new roads several years ago has taken the commerce somewhere else. After
descending about 3 hours from Pelechuco towards the lush green vegetation,
we will leave the main trail and start a very steep climbing on a very seldom-used
path that follows the Piukala River. Machetes may be needed to open our
way towards the hut that was used by the National Geographic scientists
to study the Andean Bear. We will camp high above the timber line in a aerial
spot called "Pusu Punku" (the gate to the swamp) and wait for
luck to spot a bear. The line between the forest and the grass lands is
so well marked that only a few steps are needed to be on either of them. |
| Day
3. Trek to Siete Lagunas (Seven lakes). Camp. |
Elevations
1st Mnt Pass 4,560m (14,960f)
Valley 3,900m (12,792f)
2nd Mnt Pass 4,200m (13,780f)
Siete Lagunas 4,150m (13,616f)
Timing
Walking: 8-9 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Today, while our mules
take the main path near to the bottom of the valley towards the mountain
pass, we will take a longer way ascending first to the top of the ridge
and – hopefully – enjoy the great views of the Apolobamba Mountains.
The good thing is that we are already acclimatized and the altitude does
not feel like it did a week ago. The landscape changes dramatically as we
get higher in condor’s land. After descending to the valley and crossing
the first mountain pass, we will descend to a steep valley, ascend again
to the second pass of the day, and finally descend to the campsite located
in a wide valley where there are several (actually more than seven) lakes
surrounded by rolling hills and rocky spires. |
| Day
4. Trek to Impillani. Camp. |
Elevations
1st Mnt Pass 4,390m (14,400f)
Valley 3,950m (12,956f)
2nd Mnt Pass 4,200m (13,780f)
Impillani 4,105m (13,469f)
Timing
Walking: 5-6 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Towards our daily mountain
pass we will meet another ancient trail. Because its size, it seems to be
a more important one. There is a common confusion and everyone – even
locals -, call these roads “Inca Trails” but the truth is that
they are much older and here in Bolivian territory, they were probably built
by the Tiwanaco civilization. Now we are very deep inside the wild Andes
Mountains. After crossing two mountain passes and having traversed a couple
of Andean valleys we will descend into Impillani valley where we will camp
just after the last mountain pass. It is recommendable to look at the mountain
sides with binoculars, who knows you may spot a fox, a coyote, an Andean
deer, or – if you are really lucky – a bear or a puma. |
| Day
5. Trek to Queara valley. Camp. |
Elevations
Queara river 3,000m (9,840f)
Queara 3,190m (10,466f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Looking at those valleys
and mountains, one realizes that people did not invent “Feng Shui”;
its concepts lie in nature. The creaks, the ravines, the meadows, the forest
patches in between rocky peaks and the lakes transmit us such a calm feeling
of peace that we do not want to leave. The trail will descend into a deep
microclimatic valley called Queara. The campsite could not be more paradisiacal.
A flat grassy field called “Muya” with a clear water stream
where trout jump from time to time. |
| Day
6. Trek to Llamaca. Camp. |
Elevations
Llamaca 4,650m (15,257f)
Timing
Walking: 6-7 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
Prepare yourself for
a long climb. The trail has been magnificently designed. It switches back
and forward on steep rocky faces and will get us back to the altitude lands.
For the first time since Pelechuco we will meet a local community: Queara
village located at the tree line. The shy but friendly people are the Mollo
Indians. Later at the evening, we will camp in a grassy flat near to the
mountains. |
| Day
7. Trek to Pelechuco. Basic hostel. |
Elevations
Sanches Pass 4,750m (15,585f)
Macara 4,550m (14,924f)
Crest 4,650m (15,252f)
Pelechuco 3,600m (11,800f)
Timing
Walking: 5-6 Hrs
Meals
B,L,D |
An early wakeup will
worth the astonishing sun rice we will enjoy. Towards Sanches mountain pass,
we will have great views of both perpetual extremes of the Andes: the mountains
and the Amazon basin usually covered by a sea of clouds. From this point
we are near to close the loop. There are two options to return to Pelechuco;
the easiest following a new road along of Macara valley, or the toughest
cross-country across the ridge that separates Macara and Pelechuco valleys. |
| Day
8. Transport to La Paz. |
Elevations
Road Paz 4,800m (15,744f)
La Paz 3,650m (11,972f)
Timing
Driving : 8-9 Hrs
Meals
B,L |
We will take the same
road back to La Paz. On the way back we will make a short visit to the Ulla
Ulla hot springs and hopefully take a bath. Then the road will lead us to
the Altiplano and Lake Titicaca towards La Paz city. |
